Vinh Long

mekong_delta

The capital of Vinh Long province and plonked about midway between My Tho and Can Tho, Vinh Long is not the biggest town in the Mekong Delta, yet as a major transit hub it can be noisy and bustling nonetheless. Flee the mayhem by heading to the riverfront, where plenty of cafes and restaurants afford respite. Despite a shortage of in-town highlights, Vinh Long is the main gateway to reach island life and some amazing sites, for example Cai Be floating market, abundant orchards and rural homestays.

 Sights

Mekong River Islands
What makes a trip to Vinh Long worth while is not the town but the beautiful islands dotting the river. The islands are devoted to agriculture, especially the growing of tropical fruits, which are delivered to markets in Ho Chi Minh city. This low-lying region is as much water as land and houses are generally built on stilts.
Some of the more popular islands to visit include Binh Hoa Phuoc and An Binh, but there are many other islands to visit too. Travellers can take the public ferry to one of the islands and then walk or cycle around on your own. However, this isn’t as exciting as a boat tour, since travellers won’t cruise the narrow canals. You should be able to arrange a two – to three-hour cruise with one of the operators along the wharf and it costs less than 300,000d.

Cai Be Floating Market
(5am-5pm) This busy river market is worth including on a boat tour from Vinh Long, but aim for an early morning visit. Wholesalers on large boats moor here, each specialising in just a few types of fruit or vegetable, hanging samples of their goods from tall wooden poles. A notable sight is the large and photogenic Catholic cathedral on the riverside.
It takes tourists about an hour to go to the market from Vinh Long, but most people make detours on the way there or back to see the canals or visit orchards. For those people who travel on an organised tour of the delta, it is customary to board a boat here, discover the islands and moor in Vinh Long before continuing to Can Tho.

Van Thanh Mieu Temple
(Phan Thanh Gian Temple; Ð Tran Phu; 5-11am & 1-7pm) It is rare for such confucian temples to appear in southern Vietnam. The front hall honours local hero Phan Thanh Gian, who led an uprising against the French colonists in 1930. When it became clear that his revolt was doomed, Phan killed himself rather than be captured by the colonial army. The rear hall, built in 1866, has a portrait of Confucius above the altar.
Van Thanh Mieu Temple, which sits in pleasant grounds across from the the river, is southeast of town; it was designed in Confucian style, it looks like it was lifted straight out of China. Remember that it’s different from the smaller Quoc Cong Pagoda, which you’ll pass on the way.

 WORTH A TRIP

MEKONG RIVERSIDE RESORT & SPA
With a amazing sense of seclusion, the four-star Mekong Riverside Resort & Spa (073-392 4466; www.mekongriversideresort.vn; Hoa Qui Ward, Hoa Khanh subdistrict, Cai Be district; lake/river view d US$85/110) has lovely thatched bungalows and stunning views through the mass river waters. Pick a fishing rod and angle for fish from your balcony or just sit back and watch the river boats cruise the Mekong at night. With free canoes, bird-watching tower and swimming pool, the resort offers the chance to real experience the amazing riverine world of the Mekong Delta. The resort can arrange transport.

 Tours

Cuu Long Tourist BOAT TOUR
(070-382 3616; www.cuulongtourist.com; 2 Ɖ Phần B Chậu; 7am-5pm) Offers a variety of boat tours varying from three hours to three days. Destinations include small canals, fruit orchards, brick kilns, a conical palm hat workshop and the Cai Be floating market.

 Sleeping

You’ll find much better accommodation in Ben Tre, Tra Vinh and Can Tho, and much more atmospheric accommodation in one of the local homestays. If you really must stay in Vinh Long town, the following are the best options.

Van Tram Guesthouse $
(070-382 3820; 4 Ð 1 Thang 5; r 300,000-400,000d) This is not a big guesthouse but tall and slim with just five rooms , the bonus here is the location near the river. Rooms (one with balcony) are a good size, yet shower rooms are tiny.

Cuu Long Hotel $$
(070-382 3656; www.cuulongtourist.com; 2 Ɖ Phan B Chau; s from 440,000d, d from 560,000d) This is a characterless government-run hotel which is very clean and sees many midrange tour groups checking in when the boats depart from directly across the road. There are spacious rooms with baths, and either balconies or river views.

‘HOMESTAYS’ AROUND VINH LONG
For many travellers, the opportunity to experience river life and to share a home-cooked meal with a local family here is a impression of a Mekong tour . Maybe the word ‘homestay’ is not right: in most cases you won’t in fact be staying in a local family’s house but in particular constructed accommodation more akin to a rudimentary hostel.

There are many homestays which have large communal rooms with bunks, while others offer simple bungalows with shared facilities and some even have rooms with en suites. It is usual for dinner and breakfast to be included. In some places you’ll share a meal with the family, while in bigger sites it’s more like a restaurant. The only special experience of tourists is a verdant, rustic setting and a taste of rural life.

Though several travellers book through group tours in Ho Chi Minh City, there’s no reason you can’t do it yourself – let’s take the ferry from Vinh Long and then a xe om (motorbike taxi) to go to your favorite destination. Note that some hosts are unable to speak English fluently , yet welcome foreign guests just the same.

Ba Linh ( 070-385 8683, mobile 0939 138 142; balinhhomestay@gmail.com; 95 An Thanh, An Binh; r 350,000d) Run by friendly Mr Truong, this traditional-looking and popular place has six simple, high-roofed, partitioned rooms in a line, all with fan. There are also breakfast and dinner to be included in the price for you.

Ngoc Sang (070-385 8694; 95/8 Binh Luong, An Binh Village; per person US$15) Readers love this friendly, canal-facing homestay. The food is good, free bikes are always available and if you feel willing, you can even help out in the family’s orchard.

Ut Trinh (070-395 4255, mobile 0919 002 505; vinhlongmekongtravel@yahoo.com; Hoa Qui, Hoa Ninh, An Binh; r US$15-25) Cordial owner Trinh speaks excellent English at this very pleasant, fresh and clean homestay, with excellent rooms in two buildings on a veggie/fruit farm.

Nam Thanh (070-385 8883; namthanhomestayvn@gmail.com; 172/9 Binh Luong, An Binh; from US$12) Four hundred metres from the jetty (the owner can pick you up), this homestay offer 26 camp-style beds and fold-up single beds in a communal space and sturdier doubles in rattan and bamboo quarters.

 Eating & Drinking

Dong Khanh VIETNAMESE $
(49 Ð 2 Thang 9; mains from 30,000d; 6am-6pm) This restaurant which always offers a varied menu consisting of hotpots, pork noodles, roast chicken and Cantonese rice is a popular and spacious Dong Khanh (meaning ‘celebrate together’). They also have an English-language menu.

Vinh Long Market VIETNAMESE $
(Ð 3 Thang 2) Great spot for fresh fruit and cheap street snacks.

Phuong Thuy VIETNAMESE $
(Ð Phan B Chau; mains from 30,000d; 6am-10pm) It’s a great choice by the riverside, yet it can fill up with tour groups.

Hoa Nang Cafe CAFE, BAR
(Ð 1 Thang 5; iced coffee 7000d; 7am-11pm) Perched on the riverbank, this is a good place to enjoy an iced coffee or scented tea in the morning or to quaff your first beer back on dry land after a river trip.

 Getting There & Away

Boat
Visitors can travel by carago boats from Vinh Long to Chau Doc (near the Cambodian border); enquire locally, near the ferry landing.

Bus
Vinh Long’s city bus station (Ben Xe Thanh Pho Vinh Long; Ð 3 Thang 2), easily set in the middle of town, has buses to HCMC (90,000d) and Sa Dec (9000d). If visitors want other services, it’s the best to go to the provincial bus station (Hwy 1A), 3km south of town on the way to Can Tho. There are buses to Can Tho (40,000d), Hochiminh city (100,000d) and other spots leave from here. A motorbike taxi will cost around 300,000d from the centre of town to the provincial bus station.

Car & Motorbike
Vinh Long is just off Hwy 1A, 33km from Can Tho, 66km from My Tho and 136km from Ho Chi Minh city.